All Chef Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.